Castelvetro di Modena - Parmigiano, Balsamico, and Mud Volcanos!

       After touring the Lamborghini Museum, the four of us arrived in Castelvetro di Modena to spend three nights at Locanda del Feudo.  The Locanda has five beautiful rooms that are more like suites, and two dining areas.  It has a well-stocked wine cellar, and the food is amazing...

      

       Castelvetro is a small characteristic village near Modena and Maranello, in the region of Emilia Romagna...

       Emilia Romagna is known for Parmigiano Reggiano, Balsamic vinegar of Modena, Prosciutto di Parma, and Lambrusco wines.  We learned first-hand about the first two.  We did a Parmigiano Reggiano tour and tasting at the local Caseificio San Silvestro.  They insisted that we wear these blue outfits, including coats, booties, face masks, and hair nets.  We looked, and felt...ridiculous!

                                  

                                

Master cheesemaker Giorgio...

                                                     

Tap, tap, tap to test quality...

       We got to taste cheese at the end, including 12, 24, and 36 month Parmigiano, and also some cow ricotta...

                                        

The cheese shop is open to the public...

           The whole experience was informative, but also hilarious.  It could have been an I Love Lucy episode!  The blue outfits were so thin they were either tearing or falling off us.  We couldn't stop laughing.  What to do after that...?  How about some pizza....?  Yes, following the Parmigiano experience we found the place that made the biggest pizzas in the area...!

           

I can't believe she ate the whole thing...!

      After a long and late lunch, we cruised through Maranello to watch Ferrari cars on the Fiorano test track...

A Ferrari in camo at full chat...

          Th next morning after breakfast Andrea at the Locanda scheduled a Balsamic Vinegar of Modena tour and tasting for us at Acetaia Boni, just a few kilometers away.  The Acetaia has been in business for almost 100 years.  The owner, Romano Boni, met us as we arrived.  He couldn't have been nicer, more interesting, and more passionate about his work.  He took us into the aging room with all of its barrels.  The aroma was intense.  Mr. Boni explained in detail how the real balsamic vinegar of Modena is made.  

                     

                                    

A very passionate Romano Boni...

                                             

An Acetaia and also a museum...

                                            

                                                   

A museum of cooper's tools...

                                     

Happy customers...

           Our cherished purchases from the Modena area... 30 year old Balsamic Vinegar from Boni and 40 month old Parmigiano Reggiano from Caseificio San Silvestro...                                              

           We noticed two or three barrels with what looked like an old Ferrari painted on the barrel head.  Mr. Boni explained that these barrels were the property of the family of the great Grand Prix driver Juan Manuel Fangio!  He said a family member comes to the Acetaia every year to collect their Balsamic Vinegar!  He added that he was producing product for several famous people but wasn't at liberty to reveal names...

           
       Mr. Boni asked us if we had plans for the afternoon.  When we said no, he suggested that we go to Fiorano Modenese to see the mud volcanoes.  That sounded fascinating, so off we went.  A half hour drive took us down an ever-narrowing road through a parkland, where we parked at Trattoria da Guido (asking permission, of course!).  We found the walking paths and located the mud volcanoes, called Salse di Nirano in Italian.  These things continually ooze a muddy, salty sludge.  It was fascinating.  

 

                                            

       After viewing the mud volcanoes and enjoying the walk through the park, we returned to the Trattoria for a bite.  We sat outside, and were soon joined by several free-range chickens, obviously not afraid of people...

                                  

     

           And what did we have for lunch...?  Chicken, of course!  Well, some of us did anyway.  The food was seriously good, which proved the point that all over Italy you can drive down a tiny road, find a Trattoria at the end of the road, and the food would be delicious.  

          The day ended with a delicious dinner at Locanda del Feudo.  Tomorrow we will go over the mountain to Lucca.  With our new knowledge of Parmigiano Reggiano, Balsamic Vinegar, and mud volcanoes, we are your happy travelers, Joe and Chris!

          Click on any image to enlarge.